En este artículo exploraremos cómo crear un camuflaje anacrónico de la II Guerra Mundial, un camuflaje tipo «astillado», comúnmente utilizado por los modelistas para tanques y prototipos de alemanes de la 2GM. Para lograrlo, utilizaremos cinta para enmascarar para crear un camuflaje intrincado en tres tonos, donde cada color será iluminado para generar más contraste.
Este Panzer está a la venta y puede encontrarse en la nueva sección de mi blog: la tienda.
This article was originally published on the Battlefront website, Part 1 and Part 2.
The “What If” tanks open up endless possibilities for experimenting with color schemes and camouflage. Since these tanks never existed, the creative freedom is limitless. However, it is important to think logically and consider historical facts when designing your paint scheme.
In this tutorial, we will explore how to paint a disruptive camouflage, or “splinter,” on a German paper panzer E-100. With its large vertical and horizontal surfaces, we will also learn how to use oils to create streaking effects and simulate dirt accumulation, adding a layer of realism to our models.
This is likely the most challenging painting guide I have presented in this series, as it involves a detailed masking process for the camouflage and requires polishing the basic acrylic paint job with oils. However, if it were easy, you would not have the opportunity to learn many new techniques. Remember, you do not have to follow every step in this guide; feel free to pick and choose what you find most useful or interesting.
This guide builds upon the techniques described previously (How to quickly paint WWII German vehicles in 15mm and Contrast in 15mm Vehicles) especially the highlighting method used (color modulation). Using masks, we will create a hard-edge camouflage that will also feature highlights.
Step 1 – Preparation
We begin by assembling all the parts of the tank using a dedicated glue for plastic, commonly known as plastic cement. Avoid using instant glue (cyanoacrylate) for plastic, as it can hinder assembly; this type of glue crystallizes, while plastic cement works by melting the pieces together.
When preparing your platoons, it is a good idea to customize your tanks a bit. For this model, I added 3D-printed stowage and boxes, removed one of the skirts, and adjusted some details using a 2mm PVC sheet. Additionally, you can create antennas using a 0.2mm nickel-silver rod (Albion Alloys). For these accessories, instant glue works well.
Step 2 – Primer
A crucial step before starting the painting process is applying an undercoat or primer. This will help the paint adhere better and increase its durability. In this case, we use a neutral grey color, which serves as an ideal base for any other colors, as they will easily cover it.
Step 3 – Olive green camo shadow
Once we have decided on the camouflage pattern, we begin painting the first color. This camouflage design involves applying the disruptive pattern only on the vertical surfaces, while the horizontal panels will be painted in plain dark yellow.
Focusing on the camo panels, I decided to start with green, as it will be one of the dominant colors. For this, we apply an even layer of Deep Green ATOM-20098, diluted with 30% acrylic thinner and using an airbrush (from now on, whenever I mention the airbrush, I will be using this thinning method).
Step 4 – Olive green camo base
Next, we airbrush the first highlight or base color using Green Base ATOM-20083. We apply the first highlight to the upper part of the vertical panels, following the color modulation technique (more about this here). In most cases, there is no need to use masks, as we can simply tilt the model to airbrush just a corner.
Step 5 – Olive green camo highlight
We airbrush the final highlight using a lighter green tone by mixing Green Base ATOM-20083 with 20% Dunkelgelb ATOM-20012. Again, we focus on the upper parts that were pre-highlighted in the previous step, reducing the painted area. If you do not have an airbrush or prefer a simpler approach, you can easily apply these colors using the drybrush technique (as we did here: How to paint tanks using the drybrush and oils).
Step 6 – Masking I
With the first camo color laid down, we create the initial layer of masks. Remember, the areas we cover will remain green. Using masking tape (Tamiya and AMMO) of various thicknesses, we create disruptive lines only on the vertical panels. A sharp knife can be used to cut along the upper edge, close to the upper horizontal panel. This task is simple but tedious, so please be patient.
Step 7 – Hull red
The next camouflage color is the hull red, which was the undercoat color that German tanks typically had before applying the final paint. We will follow the same procedure as for the green, applying highlights in three steps: shadow, base, and highlight. For the shadow, we use Black Brown ATOM-20063, while the highlight is done with Rotbraun ATOM-20046. The middle tone, or base color, is achieved by mixing these two colors in a 50/50 ratio. It is crucial to apply the highlights in the same areas as we did with the green; otherwise, the color modulation will not be effective.
Step 8 – Masking II
We repeat the masking step, ensuring not to cover the hull red areas. The goal is to restrict the dark yellow, or Dunkelgelb, to thin camouflage lines on the vertical panels.
Step 9 – Dark yellow
We complete the camouflage by airbrushing the final color, Dunkelgelb, or dark yellow. We will also use this color to paint all the horizontal panels (the upper part of the hull and turret), applying the highlight towards the back and/or front. We also paint the tracks and gun barrel. Again, we will use three layers: shadow, base, and highlight. For the shadow, we mix 80% Dunkelgelb ATOM-20012 with 20% Chipping ATOM-20064. The base will be pure Dunkelgelb ATOM-20012, and for the highlight, we mix 80% Dunkelgelb ATOM-20012 with 20% Matt White ATOM-20000. Remember to thin these paints with 30% acrylic thinner when using an airbrush.
Step 10 – Removing the masks
This is the most satisfying part: carefully removing all the masks. Do not worry if some paint goes a little outside the camouflage spots.
Step 11 – Last highlight
We complete the color modulation by using a brush to highlight all the small details, such as rivets, hatches, and small panels. The idea is to create contrast. We will use three colors, one for each camouflage. For the green and red areas, we mix the corresponding lighter color with a little bit of Dunkelgelb ATOM-20012. For the dark yellow parts, we add an additional 20% Matt White ATOM-20000 to the previous mix.
Step 12 – Accessories and decals
Once the camouflage is complete, we paint the stowage and accessories using their appropriate colors, such as mid-tones. For this, we use acrylic paints and a thin brush. The exhaust is painted red brown to simulate rust. It is important to choose colors that create contrast, allowing them to stand out on the tank without being exaggerated.
Then, we apply a couple of thin layers of glossy varnish before applying the decals (How To Apply Decals). Finally, we apply another layer of glossy varnish to protect and integrate the decals, as well as to facilitate the application of the wash in the next step.
Step 14 – Enamel dark wash
To highlight all the recesses and details, we apply a selective wash. For this, we will use an enamel-based wash. While it requires the use of an organic solvent, such as white spirit or turpentine, it offers the ability to remove excess paint, leading to very clean and well-defined results. This is because enamels take hours to dry, unlike acrylic washes, which dry in seconds and do not allow for such adjustments. For this step, we begun using a dark brown wash, like A.MIG-1005 Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles, applied exclusively to the recesses and corners using a brush. We let it dry for 30 to 60 minutes.
Step 15 – Remove excess of enamel wash
After 30 to 60 minutes, we use a brush or cotton swab moistened with enamel odorless thinner to gently rub the surface and remove any excess wash. On vertical panels, a flat brush can be used to drag the paint downward, creating subtle streaking effects in the process. Sometimes we may remove too much wash, either because the recess is not deep enough or we over-brush the area. If this happens, we can use a fine brush and dark brown acrylic paint to carefully outline those parts for added definition. This will enhance the definition, and in turn, the contrast. This is key when painting 15 mm models.
Step 16 – Sealing with mat varnish
We allow the traces of enamel odorless thinner to evaporate for 10-20 minutes (this process can be sped up with a hairdryer). Once dry, we apply a couple of flat varnish layers over the entire tank using an airbrush. This will eliminate the glossy effect and fully integrate the decals into the surface.
Step 16 – Chipping I
The first weathering effect we will address is chipping, which is done in two stages: light or superficial chipping, and dark or deep chipping and scratches. We begin with the superficial impacts using a lighter tone of the tank’s base color, which in this case is dark yellow or Dunkelgelb. Although the technically correct color for superficial chipping would be red primer, we will later use a dark brown for the deeper chipping to partially resemble that color.
For the light chipping, we use the highlight color that was previously applied to the dark yellow (a mix of 80% Dunkelgelb ATOM-20012 with 40% Matt White ATOM-20000) and add a bit more white. Using a fine brush, we create random dots across the tank, primarily focusing on edges and high-wear areas such as hatches. We can also create scratches by painting thin lines along the sides of the tank to resemble the impact of branches or other objects. We only create superficial chipping effects with this color on the dark yellow and green camouflage spots, not on the hull red, which is the actual primer color.
Step 17 – Chipping II
Following the previous approach, we now create the dark or deep chipping effects using a dark brown color, such as Chipping ATOM-20064. This color serves a dual purpose: representing both the exposed primer and bare, rusted metal. We apply it in the same manner as before, placing it in contact with or slightly overlapping the light chipping effects, but without completely covering them. The contrast between the light and dark colors will help create a three-dimensional effect. It is not necessary to cover all the previous light chipping effects. This time, we also apply it to the hull red sections. It is important to keep the chipping effects very small, in line with the scale of the model. Remember, when applying weathering effects, less is often more.
Step 18 – Stowage
https://heresybrush.com/en/2023/painting-15mm-wwi-french-fusiliers-combining-quick-washes-and-advanced-layering/Before applying the next weathering effect, we paint the stowage and other elements added to the tank, including the antenna, using acrylic paints and applying our preferred painting techniques, similar to those we use for figures or soldiers (for example, base + wash + light; more here).
Step 19 – Streaking effects with oils I
We have previously discussed the advantages and disadvantages of using oil paints when painting tanks (see this). The key points are that oils take significantly longer to dry compared to acrylics (hours versus minutes), allowing for easy blending. However, they require the use of an organic solvent, such as Enamel Odourless Thinner A.MIG-2019, the same one used for the enamel wash.
To create streaking effects, we simply paint thin lines on vertical or inclined panels, following the natural path where gravity would pull water and dirt downwards. We use different oil colors depending on the effect we want to achieve and the color of the surface. For a dust and dirt effect, we choose a couple of brown tones, a very light brown to represent dust, and a reddish tone to suggest rust. These streaks are applied randomly across the surface, with a general guideline of using lighter oils on darker surfaces and vice versa for contrast. The oils used here were Oilbrusher Earth A.MIG-3514, Dark Brown A.MIG-3512, Dust A.MIG-3516 and Rust A.MIG-3510.
Step 20 – Streaking effects with oils II
Immediately, without waiting, we use a brush moistened with odorless enamel thinner to blend the oils (making sure to brush off most of the thinner on a piece of paper or cloth). We apply the brush strokes vertically, dragging the paint from the top to the bottom to create longer streaking effects. Our goal is to achieve subtle effects, so do not worry if most of the paint is removed. However, it is important to do this gently to avoid completely removing the oil paint.
Step 21 – Dirt effects I
Next, we move to the horizontal surfaces, where dirt and rust tend to accumulate in corners and around details. Using the brown and red oils we used previously, we apply a small amount of paint to the areas where we want to create the effect, such as around the hatches and the back of the turret.
Step 22 – Dirt effects II
Once again, we load a brush with odorless enamel thinner and begin blending and spreading the oil around the application area. We use a random motion to create a more realistic effect. Note that this time we apply the brush with plenty of thinner, unlike before when the brush was almost dry.
Step 23 – Oil work
We repeat the same process on the entire tank, working on both vertical and horizontal surfaces as previously described. Since we are using oils, we can always completely remove the paint with thinner and start over if needed. Alternatively, we can wait 30 to 60 minutes and apply a second layer of effects. In any case, as with the chipping, it is important to create small and subtle effects, as this is the key to effective weathering.
Step 24 – Dust effects with pigments I
We let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes before continuing. The next weathering effect is dust, which is best achieved using pigments (colored dust). There are various options for working with pigments. In this case, we mix them with odorless enamel thinner to create a wash, and apply a bit on the lower part of the side skirts. We use an old brush and apply the pigment in a random motion, avoiding the creation of any patterns.
Step 10 – Dust effects with pigments II
We let it dry completely (we can use a hairdryer to speed up the process) until the pigments regain their light and dusty appearance.
Step 10 – Dust effects with pigments III
Then use an old brush to remove the excess and blend the pigments in the lower part of the tank.
Step 11 – Splashes effects
Finally, we can add more interest by creating splash effects using enamels and dedicated products, as we described earlier (see here). We use at least two different colors. The light color will represent dry splashes, while the dark color will represent wet ones. We pay special attention to the section where the side skirt is missing.
TRACKS
Although the tracks were painted simultaneously with the tank, we have addressed them separately in this tutorial for clarity. This could also serve as a stand-alone tutorial for learning how to paint tracks, regardless of the tank.
Step 1 – Base color
We paint the tracks in dark yellow, using the same highlighting technique as before by applying the highlights toward the upper parts. Then, we block in the tracks with a mid brown or gray, for example, by mixing a 1:1 ratio of Zimmerit ATOM-20144 and Chipping ATOM-20064.
Step 2 – Metallic shine
We apply a dry brush technique using Drybrush Light Metal A.MIG-0621, highlighting the raised details of the tracks. Remember to brush off most of the paint on a cloth or paper before applying it to the tank.
Step 3 – Sealing with glossy varnish
We protect the previous work and prepare the surface for the next step, the wash, by applying a layer of glossy varnish using the airbrush.
Step 4 – Enamel dark wash
We apply an enamel-based wash to enhance all the recesses and details, using a dark brown color. For simplicity, we use the same one we applied on the tank: Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles A.MIG-1005.
Step 5 – Remove excess of wash
After allowing it to sit for 30 to 60 minutes, we remove the excess wash with a brush or cotton swab moistened in odorless enamel thinner.
Step 6 – Chipping effects
We create chipping effects and scratches using a dark brown color, such as Chipping ATOM-20064. We can simply paint a line around the edges of the wheels using the side of the brush.
Step 7 – Dust effects
To create dust effects and accumulation between the details of the tracks, we use a wash made with pigments, as we did when applying dust effects to the side skirts of the tank. We apply enough of the wash to ensure that there is a sufficient accumulation of pigment. Note that the consistency of the wash should resemble that of milk. If there is too much pigment, you will end up creating a thick -and unrealistic- layer. It is better to start with less than you think you might need and add more if necessary.
Step 8 – Dust effects II
We let it dry completely until the thinner is completely evfarpotaed and the pigments recover thei original dusty appearance. We can use a hairdryer to speed up the process. Then, we use a cotton swab or old brush to remove the excess of pigment while spreading it around.
Step 9 – Splashes effects
For consistency, we also apply splash effects on the tracks (see here). We use only ‘wet’ effects in a dark color, as the enamel will blend with the pigment, creating an interesting result.
With this final step, our tank is ready. We can attach the tracks using instant glue, as plastic cement will not work in this case due to the layer of paint covering the plastic
